CHOPSTICKS : MORE THAN A TUNE ON THE PIANO – PROPER ETIQUETTE BRINGS HARMONY
By Stacey Kumagai
The Celebrated Chop Waltz – which the music world affectionately calls ‘Chopsticks,’ was written in 1877 by Euphemia Allen under nom de musique, Arthur de Lull. This song just so happens to have a lot in common with the wooden tools utilized in Asian cuisine. The song was written to be played in two-part harmony, similarly to a two-finger piano exercise. And just like the song, using chopsticks is indeed a two-finger exercise – one of precision and coordination. It takes time, and practice to master. But if you can do this, you will have Zen harmony as you indulge in Asian cuisine.
The exact date/origin of chopsticks is not precisely documented, however, earliest findings of usage were in China - back in the Shang dynasty (1766 BC - 1122 BC).
As a Sansei, third generation Japanese American, chopsticks were part of my utensil education just as much as a stainless steel fork. My first pair of chopsticks (ohashi) were pink plastic children’s chopsticks designed to fit my small hands, so that I could learn to use them appropriately. In Japanese culture, each family member has their ‘own’ pair. As it is considered unsanitary to use someone else’s. I learned quickly that I was not to stab my food (signifies death!!), as this was poor etiquette! I also learned you are not to chew on the ends (something I found out only after I had chewed off the painted-on kokeshi dolls which adorned the ends of my pair). And it is a huge mistake to transfer food from one pair of chopsticks to another (not only because it is unsanitary, as customary practices are to only transfer food plate to plate and with the serving chopsticks), but also because this is similar to some funeral ritual of passing bones.
My family cringed when they would see anyone break apart disposable chopsticks to sand them against each other as if to shave off wooden slivers! DO NOT DO THIS – it is rude!!! It is considered disrespectful showing ignorance and improper manners, as you are implying that the utensils are unworthy to feed you the delicious meal that is prepared for you. You are insulting the host, the cuisine itself, the home or restaurant establishment you are in, as well as the chef, and snubbing everyone, as if to declare you are superior! This is a no-no! Also, do not ‘kabob’ your food. These are just a few etiquette items on a long list of don’ts which include more obvious behavior like sticking them in your nose or in your mouth to pretend to be a walrus, or even, yes, ladies, not to be worn as hair ornaments. It’s bad karma – like signifying your own death because it is stabbing a well coiffed chignon, similarly to a mound of rice.
The tips of the chopsticks themselves should be placed on a chopsticks rest, when not in use, during the middle of a meal. They are to be lined up side-by-side horizontally across a bowl when you are finished eating. This signifies to the home host/hostess or restaurant waiter/waitress that you are finished with your meal.
I had also learned that there were different kinds of chopsticks for different Asian cultures and even within our own household, these were to be utilized for different purposes. Chinese and Vietnamese chopsticks are longer and more square-ish tapering to a blunt tip and are traditionally made from wood or bamboo. Korean chopsticks originated in metal with a flat mid-section. While Japanese chopsticks are more tapered to a sharper point, usually wooden and then lacquered. Now while this is how they are traditionally categorized, I learned very quickly generations changed things which are passed along as in-house tradition. There are also interesting ways to incorporate their usage.
Much like a wooden spoon is used in culinary arts because of temperature capabilities, wooden chopsticks are used the same way, holding up to what is being cooked. I had learned lacquered, plastic or metal chopsticks were not to be used for cooking. In my household, my mother and grandmother used Chinese wooden chopsticks to cook with and separated them by usage like a seasoned cast-ironed skillet or seasoned wok. Certain kinds of wooden chopsticks would, over time, ‘absorb’ seasonings and flavors to impart on the dishes that were to be created. Our traditional lacquered Japanese chopsticks were used as place-setting utensils to dine with. Fancier and more decorated versions were used for when company came over. Serving chopsticks were reserved for just that sole purpose, also.
As I befriended many friends of different Asian cultures, I soon discovered there were lots of similarities as there were differences, however, a lot of the etiquette was universally understood.
The manufacturing process of chopsticks starts with milling of the wood. Some wood is dried and aged – depending on the kind of wood used. But the most important part is that the wood isn’t too porous so that it is resistant to water. Lots of saw-work is involved in the next steps of inlaying, and cutting and finally getting to the shaping and finishing of the chopsticks.
Yes, even chopsticks are now looking at our planet in how to be eco-friendly. Greenpeace China has been actively doing eco-forestry in the Solomon Islands to protect Paradise Forests with ‘Reclaim Paradise Chopstick Sales.’ With the mass-distribution and usage of disposable chopsticks, saving the forests has become a concern. One of the biggest steps being taken now in the chopstick manufacturing industry for eco-friendliness is using forest thinning products – wood which would otherwise be wasted, if not utilized. China uses an estimated 45 billion pairs and Japan 25 billion pairs of disposable chopsticks. And these are used and thrown away annually. As a result of this a 5% tax was added to the price of disposable chopsticks back in 2006…. Perhaps to discourage massive use and encourage alternatives.
Japanese culture etiquette has frowned upon using someone else’s chopsticks for centuries. However, historical culture etiquette is now taking a backseat to saving our planet one pair of chopsticks at a time. Japan is stepping up taking the very first step in disregarding usage of disposable chopsticks and creating and encouraging use of reusable plastic chopsticks, getting this to be mainstream practice as most companies. This is much like how regular forks are washed, dried and set out for use again.
You can purchase your own pair of affordable chopsticks online from the Japanese American National Museum Store http://www.janmstore.com/110419.html so you have your own ohashi-to-go.
They even have ‘rookie chopsticks’ for those who have not mastered the two-finger precision technique of using chopsticks, so that you, too can have your own Zen dining experience of eating with chopsticks.
Chopsticks. They’re the hand-held stilts of Asian cuisine. Tread carefully when it comes to etiquette and enjoy your food. You’ll soon find that the praise you receive in acknowledging this centuries-old dining tradition is as much music to your ears, the way the cuisine is Zen to your mouth.